Monstera adansonii, better known as the Swiss cheese plant, is that eye-catching trailing vine with the hole-filled leaves you see all over plant shops and Instagram feeds. I have grown several of these myself, and I can tell you they are surprisingly easy to keep happy — even in small apartments or low-light corners. Unlike its big cousin Monstera deliciosa, this one stays compact and climbs or trails beautifully. If you want a low-maintenance plant that makes a statement without taking over your floor space, the Swiss cheese plant is your best bet. In this guide, I will walk you through everything I have learned about keeping yours thriving — from potting and watering to fixing common leaf problems.
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- 1、Swiss Cheese Plant Info
- 2、Growing a Swiss Cheese Vine
- 3、Common Mistakes That Kill Your Swiss Cheese Plant
- 4、How to Propagate Your Monstera Adansonii the Right Way
- 5、Troubleshooting Leaf Problems on Your Swiss Cheese Vine
- 6、Swiss Cheese Plant Info
- 7、Growing a Swiss Cheese Vine
- 8、Common Mistakes That Kill Your Swiss Cheese Plant
- 9、How to Propagate Your Monstera Adansonii the Right Way
- 10、Troubleshooting Leaf Problems on Your Swiss Cheese Vine
- 11、FAQs
Swiss Cheese Plant Info
What Makes Monstera Adansonii Different from Monstera Deliciosa
If you have ever walked into a plant shop and scratched your head at the labels, you are not alone. People mix up Monstera adansonii and Monstera deliciosa all the time. Both go by the nickname Swiss cheese plant, but they are not the same plant. The adansonii stays smaller and grows as a vining plant, while the deliciosa turns into that big, bushy monster you see on Instagram taking over entire corners of living rooms. If you are short on floor space, the adansonii is the smarter pick.
Let me break this down so you never confuse them again. Monstera deliciosa grows those massive, split leaves that can easily reach 18 inches across indoors, and the plant itself can hit 6 to 8 feet tall even in a pot. It wants space, a sturdy support, and a lot of patience from you. Monstera adansonii, on the other hand, keeps its leaves much smaller — typically 3 to 6 inches long — and grows as a trailing or climbing vine. In the wild, it can climb up to 65 feet, but indoors you will see it top out around 3 to 5 feet if you let it trail from a hanging basket. The holes in the adansonii leaves are more numerous and closer to the center vein, while the deliciosa has long slits that cut in from the edge. I have owned both, and honestly, the adansonii is way easier to manage if you live in an apartment or have cats that knock things over. You also need to know that both plants are toxic to pets and people, so keep them out of reach of curious mouths. Here is a quick comparison so you can see the differences side by side.
| Feature | Monstera Adansonii | Monstera Deliciosa |
|---|---|---|
| Leaf size indoors | 3 to 6 inches long | 12 to 18 inches long |
| Growth habit | Trailing or climbing vine | Upright, bushy, broad |
| Mature height indoors | 3 to 5 feet as a trailer | 6 to 8 feet |
| Hole pattern | Multiple oval holes near center | Long slits from edge inward |
| Best use in home | Hanging baskets, small shelves | Floor pots, statement corners |
| Care difficulty | Beginner-friendly | Moderate |
Where Swiss Cheese Plants Come From and How They Grow
Monstera adansonii calls the tropical forests of Central and South America home. It grows naturally as an understory plant, meaning it spends its days climbing up tree trunks in dappled light. That origin story tells you everything about what it needs indoors.
Think about what a jungle floor feels like — warm, humid, and shaded by taller trees above. That is exactly the environment this plant craves. In its natural habitat, the Swiss cheese plant sends out aerial roots that grab onto bark and moss, pulling itself upward toward patches of light. The holes in the leaves, which botanists call fenestrations, actually help the plant survive. Those holes allow wind to pass through without tearing the leaf, and they let sunlight filter down to lower leaves. It is not just a gimmick for looks — it is a survival trick. When you grow this plant indoors, you are essentially recreating a tiny slice of the jungle in your living room. That means warm temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, and indirect light. I tell my friends to imagine the plant wearing a little tropical shirt and sipping a coconut — that is the vibe it wants. If you give it that, it will reward you with steady new growth and those signature holey leaves that make everyone ask, Wait, is that real?
Growing a Swiss Cheese Vine
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Do not skip the drainage holes. I cannot say this enough. A Swiss cheese vine sitting in soggy soil is a dead plant waiting to happen. Pick a pot with at least one good drainage hole at the bottom, and use a container that is only 1 to 2 inches wider than the root ball.
Here is the thing about potting your Adanson's monstera: you want a mix that drains fast but still holds some moisture. A standard potting soil mixed with about 30 to 40 percent perlite or orchid bark works beautifully. I have been using a blend of two parts all-purpose potting mix, one part perlite, and one part orchid bark for years, and my plants have never complained. The perlite keeps air pockets in the soil so roots can breathe, while the orchid bark adds chunkiness that mimics the natural debris these plants climb on in the wild. Avoid heavy garden soil or anything labeled "moisture control" — those hold too much water and will rot your roots within weeks. Hanging baskets are my favorite choice for this plant because the vines naturally cascade over the sides, showing off those beautiful leaves. Terracotta pots also work well since they wick away extra moisture from the soil. Just make sure whatever you pick has drainage, and do not use a pot that is way bigger than the plant. A pot that is too large holds excess water that the roots cannot drink fast enough, and that is where trouble starts. I learned this the hard way when I lost my first Swiss cheese vine to root rot from an oversized ceramic pot.
Light, Water, and Humidity Needs Explained
Bright indirect light is the sweet spot. Place your Monstera adansonii near an east-facing window or a few feet back from a south or west window. Direct sun will scorch the leaves, but too little light will make the plant leggy and reduce those signature holes.
Let me walk you through the watering routine because this is where most people mess up. Water your Swiss cheese plant only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry. Stick your finger in the dirt — if it feels damp, wait a few more days. In my experience, that usually means watering once every 7 to 10 days in the growing season (spring and summer) and every 12 to 16 days in fall and winter. The plant grows slower when light levels drop, so it needs less water. Now for humidity: this plant wants it high, ideally above 50 percent. If your home is dry, especially in winter when the heater runs constantly, you have options. A small humidifier placed nearby works best — I run mine for about 4 to 6 hours a day near my plants. Misting the leaves helps temporarily, but it is not a long-term solution because the water evaporates within minutes. Grouping your Swiss cheese vine with other humidity-loving plants creates a microclimate that boosts moisture in the air naturally. I keep mine next to a fern and a calathea, and they all seem happier together. You can also set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, just make sure the bottom of the pot does not sit directly in the water. If the leaves start developing brown, crispy edges, that is your plant telling you the air is too dry.
Common Mistakes That Kill Your Swiss Cheese Plant
Overwatering — The Number One Killer of Monstera Adansonii
Can you really love a plant to death? Absolutely, and overwatering is exactly how you do it. More Swiss cheese plants die from too much water than from anything else. The roots suffocate, rot sets in, and by the time you notice yellow leaves, the damage is often already done.
Here is what happens step by step. When you water too often, the soil stays wet for days, and the roots cannot get oxygen. Anaerobic bacteria start multiplying, and before you know it, the roots turn brown and mushy. The leaves turn yellow, then brown, and eventually the stem collapses. I have killed two Swiss cheese vines this way before I finally learned to check the soil before watering. The fix is simple: wait until the top inch of soil is dry, then water thoroughly until it drains out the bottom. Empty the saucer afterward — do not let the pot sit in standing water. If you catch root rot early, you can save the plant by removing it from the pot, cutting off the mushy roots with clean scissors, and repotting in fresh, dry soil. But honestly, prevention is way easier than treatment. If you are the type of person who likes to water plants on a schedule, set a reminder to check the soil first rather than automatically watering every Wednesday. Your plant will thank you. I tell everyone to use a moisture meter if they are unsure — they cost about 10 bucks and take the guesswork out of watering.
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Think your Swiss cheese plant can handle dry desert air? Think again. This tropical native needs humidity above 50 percent, and most homes sit around 30 to 40 percent, especially during winter. Low humidity causes brown leaf edges and slow growth.
I used to ignore humidity entirely because I figured, hey, plants adapt, right? Wrong. My Monstera adansonii started getting crispy brown tips on every new leaf, and new leaves took forever to unfurl. After about two months of that, I finally bought a cheap hygrometer and realized my living room was at 32 percent humidity. No wonder the plant was miserable. Here is what actually works to raise humidity without turning your home into a steam room. A cool-mist humidifier placed a few feet from the plant is the most effective method. I run mine for about 4 hours a day during winter and 2 hours in summer, and my plants have never looked better. Grouping plants together also helps because each one releases moisture through its leaves, creating a small humid bubble. Avoid misting as your only strategy — it raises humidity for maybe 10 minutes and can actually encourage fungal spots on the leaves if water sits on them too long. Temperature matters too. Keep your Swiss cheese vine away from drafty windows, air conditioning vents, and heating registers. Sudden temperature swings stress the plant and can cause leaf drop. Aim for a steady 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are comfortable in a t-shirt, your plant is probably happy too.
How to Propagate Your Monstera Adansonii the Right Way
Water Propagation vs Soil Propagation — Which Works Better?
Is it easier to root a Swiss cheese plant cutting in water or straight into soil? Honestly, water wins for most people because you can watch the roots grow. Water propagation gives you visual feedback, which makes it less scary for beginners. Soil propagation skips the transplant step but requires more careful watering.
Let me compare both methods so you can decide which fits your style. Water propagation is my go-to because I love seeing those white roots appear after a couple of weeks. Take a cutting with at least two nodes — those little brown bumps on the stem where roots and leaves grow from. Remove the bottom leaf so no leaves sit underwater, then place the cutting in a glass jar with enough water to cover the nodes but not the leaves. Change the water every 5 to 7 days to keep it fresh. Within 2 to 4 weeks, you will see roots forming. Wait until the roots are at least 2 inches long before moving the cutting to soil. Soil propagation works too, especially if you want to skip the transplant shock. Take the same cutting, dip the node in rooting hormone powder if you have it, and stick it directly into moist potting mix. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini greenhouse and keep humidity high. Water sparingly — just enough to keep the soil barely damp. Roots take about 3 to 5 weeks to establish. The downside of soil propagation is you cannot see if roots are forming, so you have to trust the process. I recommend water propagation for first-timers because seeing the roots grow is incredibly satisfying and you catch any rot immediately.
| Method | Time to roots | Success rate | Best for | Transplant shock |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Water propagation | 2 to 4 weeks | About 85 to 90 percent | Beginners, visual learners | Moderate |
| Soil propagation | 3 to 5 weeks | About 75 to 85 percent | Experienced growers, direct planters | Low |
When to Propagate and What Tools You Need
Spring and early summer are prime time for propagation. That is when your Swiss cheese vine is actively growing and has the energy to push out new roots. Propagating in winter works but takes longer and has a lower success rate. I always wait until I see at least one new leaf unfurling before I take cuttings.
Gather these tools before you start: clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors, a small glass jar or clear cup, room-temperature water, and optional rooting hormone powder. Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol first to prevent introducing bacteria to the cut. Look for a vine with at least 3 to 4 leaves and identify a node about a quarter inch below where you plan to cut. Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle — this increases the surface area for root growth. Remove the bottom leaf or two so no foliage sits in the water. Place the cutting in your jar with the node submerged. Put the jar in a spot with bright indirect light but not direct sun. I keep mine on a kitchen counter that gets morning light, and I check the water level every few days. After about 2 weeks, you will see tiny white nubs forming — those are the start of roots. Once the roots reach about 2 to 3 inches long, you can pot the cutting into a small container with well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist for the first week to help the roots adjust from water to soil, then gradually switch to your normal watering routine. I have propagated dozens of Swiss cheese plants this way and given away cuttings to friends, and it never gets old seeing those roots appear.
Troubleshooting Leaf Problems on Your Swiss Cheese Vine
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Yellow leaves usually mean too much water, while brown crispy edges point to low humidity. Curling leaves often signal underwatering or pest pressure. Each symptom tells you a different story, and reading those signs early saves your plant.
I have had my share of panic moments when a perfectly good Swiss cheese plant suddenly started throwing yellow leaves. Here is how I learned to diagnose the issues. Yellow leaves with soft, droopy stems — that is almost always overwatering. Check the soil immediately. If it feels wet, hold off on watering and let the pot dry out completely before your next drink. Yellow leaves with dry, crispy edges — that is a humidity problem. Boost the moisture around the plant with a humidifier or pebble tray. Brown tips on the leaves — low humidity or fluoride in tap water. I switched to using filtered water or letting tap water sit out for 24 hours before watering, and the brown tips stopped appearing. Leaves curling inward — the plant is thirsty or stressed from cold drafts. Check the soil moisture and move the plant away from drafty windows. One leaf turning yellow at the bottom of the plant is normal aging — do not panic. But if multiple leaves change color at once, something is off. I keep a small notebook where I jot down when I water and any leaf changes I notice. It sounds nerdy, but it helps me spot patterns before they become big problems.
Pest Problems and How to Handle Them Naturally
Mealybugs, spider mites, and fungus gnats love Monstera adansonii as much as you do. Check the undersides of leaves every time you water. Catching pests early is the difference between a quick fix and a full-blown infestation. I inspect my plants every Sunday like a little weekly ritual.
Here is what to look for and what actually works. Spider mites show up as tiny webs between stems and leaves, and the leaves develop a stippled, dusty look. They thrive in dry air, so keeping humidity above 50 percent helps prevent them. If you spot them, wipe down every leaf with a damp cloth and spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil solution — about 1 teaspoon of neem oil per quart of water with a few drops of dish soap. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks. Mealybugs look like little cotton balls tucked into leaf axils and along stems. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol — it dissolves their waxy coating and kills them on contact. Check back weekly because mealybugs are sneaky and leave behind tiny eggs. Fungus gnats are those annoying little flies that buzz around the soil. They lay eggs in wet soil, so letting the top layer dry out between waterings breaks their life cycle. Yellow sticky traps catch the adults, and a layer of sand or small pebbles on top of the soil prevents them from laying eggs. Never use harsh chemical pesticides on indoor plants — they can harm you, your pets, and the plant itself. I have treated all three pest types on my plants using natural methods, and with consistent effort, you can get rid of them without resorting to chemicals. Patience is the key. Pests take time to eliminate, but your Swiss cheese vine will bounce back if you stay on top of it.
Swiss Cheese Plant Info
What Makes Monstera Adansonii Different from Monstera Deliciosa
If you have ever walked into a plant shop and scratched your head at the labels, you are not alone. People mix up Monstera adansonii and Monstera deliciosa all the time. Both go by the nickname Swiss cheese plant, but they are not the same plant. The adansonii stays smaller and grows as a vining plant, while the deliciosa turns into that big, bushy monster you see on Instagram taking over entire corners of living rooms. If you are short on floor space, the adansonii is the smarter pick.
Let me break this down so you never confuse them again. Monstera deliciosa grows those massive, split leaves that can easily reach 18 inches across indoors, and the plant itself can hit 6 to 8 feet tall even in a pot. It wants space, a sturdy support, and a lot of patience from you. Monstera adansonii, on the other hand, keeps its leaves much smaller — typically 3 to 6 inches long — and grows as a trailing or climbing vine. In the wild, it can climb up to 65 feet, but indoors you will see it top out around 3 to 5 feet if you let it trail from a hanging basket. The holes in the adansonii leaves are more numerous and closer to the center vein, while the deliciosa has long slits that cut in from the edge. I have owned both, and honestly, the adansonii is way easier to manage if you live in an apartment or have cats that knock things over. You also need to know that both plants are toxic to pets and people, so keep them out of reach of curious mouths. Here is a quick comparison so you can see the differences side by side.
| Feature | Monstera Adansonii | Monstera Deliciosa |
|---|---|---|
| Leaf size indoors | 3 to 6 inches long | 12 to 18 inches long |
| Growth habit | Trailing or climbing vine | Upright, bushy, broad |
| Mature height indoors | 3 to 5 feet as a trailer | 6 to 8 feet |
| Hole pattern | Multiple oval holes near center | Long slits from edge inward |
| Best use in home | Hanging baskets, small shelves | Floor pots, statement corners |
| Care difficulty | Beginner-friendly | Moderate |
Where Swiss Cheese Plants Come From and How They Grow
Monstera adansonii calls the tropical forests of Central and South America home. It grows naturally as an understory plant, meaning it spends its days climbing up tree trunks in dappled light. That origin story tells you everything about what it needs indoors.
Think about what a jungle floor feels like — warm, humid, and shaded by taller trees above. That is exactly the environment this plant craves. In its natural habitat, the Swiss cheese plant sends out aerial roots that grab onto bark and moss, pulling itself upward toward patches of light. The holes in the leaves, which botanists call fenestrations, actually help the plant survive. Those holes allow wind to pass through without tearing the leaf, and they let sunlight filter down to lower leaves. It is not just a gimmick for looks — it is a survival trick. When you grow this plant indoors, you are essentially recreating a tiny slice of the jungle in your living room. That means warm temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, and indirect light. I tell my friends to imagine the plant wearing a little tropical shirt and sipping a coconut — that is the vibe it wants. If you give it that, it will reward you with steady new growth and those signature holey leaves that make everyone ask, Wait, is that real?
Growing a Swiss Cheese Vine
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Do not skip the drainage holes. I cannot say this enough. A Swiss cheese vine sitting in soggy soil is a dead plant waiting to happen. Pick a pot with at least one good drainage hole at the bottom, and use a container that is only 1 to 2 inches wider than the root ball.
Here is the thing about potting your Adanson's monstera: you want a mix that drains fast but still holds some moisture. A standard potting soil mixed with about 30 to 40 percent perlite or orchid bark works beautifully. I have been using a blend of two parts all-purpose potting mix, one part perlite, and one part orchid bark for years, and my plants have never complained. The perlite keeps air pockets in the soil so roots can breathe, while the orchid bark adds chunkiness that mimics the natural debris these plants climb on in the wild. Avoid heavy garden soil or anything labeled "moisture control" — those hold too much water and will rot your roots within weeks. Hanging baskets are my favorite choice for this plant because the vines naturally cascade over the sides, showing off those beautiful leaves. Terracotta pots also work well since they wick away extra moisture from the soil. Just make sure whatever you pick has drainage, and do not use a pot that is way bigger than the plant. A pot that is too large holds excess water that the roots cannot drink fast enough, and that is where trouble starts. I learned this the hard way when I lost my first Swiss cheese vine to root rot from an oversized ceramic pot.
Light, Water, and Humidity Needs Explained
Bright indirect light is the sweet spot. Place your Monstera adansonii near an east-facing window or a few feet back from a south or west window. Direct sun will scorch the leaves, but too little light will make the plant leggy and reduce those signature holes.
Let me walk you through the watering routine because this is where most people mess up. Water your Swiss cheese plant only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry. Stick your finger in the dirt — if it feels damp, wait a few more days. In my experience, that usually means watering once every 7 to 10 days in the growing season (spring and summer) and every 12 to 16 days in fall and winter. The plant grows slower when light levels drop, so it needs less water. Now for humidity: this plant wants it high, ideally above 50 percent. If your home is dry, especially in winter when the heater runs constantly, you have options. A small humidifier placed nearby works best — I run mine for about 4 to 6 hours a day near my plants. Misting the leaves helps temporarily, but it is not a long-term solution because the water evaporates within minutes. Grouping your Swiss cheese vine with other humidity-loving plants creates a microclimate that boosts moisture in the air naturally. I keep mine next to a fern and a calathea, and they all seem happier together. You can also set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, just make sure the bottom of the pot does not sit directly in the water. If the leaves start developing brown, crispy edges, that is your plant telling you the air is too dry.
Common Mistakes That Kill Your Swiss Cheese Plant
Overwatering — The Number One Killer of Monstera Adansonii
Can you really love a plant to death? Absolutely, and overwatering is exactly how you do it. More Swiss cheese plants die from too much water than from anything else. The roots suffocate, rot sets in, and by the time you notice yellow leaves, the damage is often already done.
Here is what happens step by step. When you water too often, the soil stays wet for days, and the roots cannot get oxygen. Anaerobic bacteria start multiplying, and before you know it, the roots turn brown and mushy. The leaves turn yellow, then brown, and eventually the stem collapses. I have killed two Swiss cheese vines this way before I finally learned to check the soil before watering. The fix is simple: wait until the top inch of soil is dry, then water thoroughly until it drains out the bottom. Empty the saucer afterward — do not let the pot sit in standing water. If you catch root rot early, you can save the plant by removing it from the pot, cutting off the mushy roots with clean scissors, and repotting in fresh, dry soil. But honestly, prevention is way easier than treatment. If you are the type of person who likes to water plants on a schedule, set a reminder to check the soil first rather than automatically watering every Wednesday. Your plant will thank you. I tell everyone to use a moisture meter if they are unsure — they cost about 10 bucks and take the guesswork out of watering.
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Think your Swiss cheese plant can handle dry desert air? Think again. This tropical native needs humidity above 50 percent, and most homes sit around 30 to 40 percent, especially during winter. Low humidity causes brown leaf edges and slow growth.
I used to ignore humidity entirely because I figured, hey, plants adapt, right? Wrong. My Monstera adansonii started getting crispy brown tips on every new leaf, and new leaves took forever to unfurl. After about two months of that, I finally bought a cheap hygrometer and realized my living room was at 32 percent humidity. No wonder the plant was miserable. Here is what actually works to raise humidity without turning your home into a steam room. A cool-mist humidifier placed a few feet from the plant is the most effective method. I run mine for about 4 hours a day during winter and 2 hours in summer, and my plants have never looked better. Grouping plants together also helps because each one releases moisture through its leaves, creating a small humid bubble. Avoid misting as your only strategy — it raises humidity for maybe 10 minutes and can actually encourage fungal spots on the leaves if water sits on them too long. Temperature matters too. Keep your Swiss cheese vine away from drafty windows, air conditioning vents, and heating registers. Sudden temperature swings stress the plant and can cause leaf drop. Aim for a steady 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are comfortable in a t-shirt, your plant is probably happy too.
How to Propagate Your Monstera Adansonii the Right Way
Water Propagation vs Soil Propagation — Which Works Better?
Is it easier to root a Swiss cheese plant cutting in water or straight into soil? Honestly, water wins for most people because you can watch the roots grow. Water propagation gives you visual feedback, which makes it less scary for beginners. Soil propagation skips the transplant step but requires more careful watering.
Let me compare both methods so you can decide which fits your style. Water propagation is my go-to because I love seeing those white roots appear after a couple of weeks. Take a cutting with at least two nodes — those little brown bumps on the stem where roots and leaves grow from. Remove the bottom leaf so no leaves sit underwater, then place the cutting in a glass jar with enough water to cover the nodes but not the leaves. Change the water every 5 to 7 days to keep it fresh. Within 2 to 4 weeks, you will see roots forming. Wait until the roots are at least 2 inches long before moving the cutting to soil. Soil propagation works too, especially if you want to skip the transplant shock. Take the same cutting, dip the node in rooting hormone powder if you have it, and stick it directly into moist potting mix. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini greenhouse and keep humidity high. Water sparingly — just enough to keep the soil barely damp. Roots take about 3 to 5 weeks to establish. The downside of soil propagation is you cannot see if roots are forming, so you have to trust the process. I recommend water propagation for first-timers because seeing the roots grow is incredibly satisfying and you catch any rot immediately.
| Method | Time to roots | Success rate | Best for | Transplant shock |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Water propagation | 2 to 4 weeks | About 85 to 90 percent | Beginners, visual learners | Moderate |
| Soil propagation | 3 to 5 weeks | About 75 to 85 percent | Experienced growers, direct planters | Low |
When to Propagate and What Tools You Need
Spring and early summer are prime time for propagation. That is when your Swiss cheese vine is actively growing and has the energy to push out new roots. Propagating in winter works but takes longer and has a lower success rate. I always wait until I see at least one new leaf unfurling before I take cuttings.
Gather these tools before you start: clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors, a small glass jar or clear cup, room-temperature water, and optional rooting hormone powder. Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol first to prevent introducing bacteria to the cut. Look for a vine with at least 3 to 4 leaves and identify a node about a quarter inch below where you plan to cut. Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle — this increases the surface area for root growth. Remove the bottom leaf or two so no foliage sits in the water. Place the cutting in your jar with the node submerged. Put the jar in a spot with bright indirect light but not direct sun. I keep mine on a kitchen counter that gets morning light, and I check the water level every few days. After about 2 weeks, you will see tiny white nubs forming — those are the start of roots. Once the roots reach about 2 to 3 inches long, you can pot the cutting into a small container with well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist for the first week to help the roots adjust from water to soil, then gradually switch to your normal watering routine. I have propagated dozens of Swiss cheese plants this way and given away cuttings to friends, and it never gets old seeing those roots appear.
Troubleshooting Leaf Problems on Your Swiss Cheese Vine
Photos provided by pixabay
Choosing the Right Pot and Soil for Success
Yellow leaves usually mean too much water, while brown crispy edges point to low humidity. Curling leaves often signal underwatering or pest pressure. Each symptom tells you a different story, and reading those signs early saves your plant.
I have had my share of panic moments when a perfectly good Swiss cheese plant suddenly started throwing yellow leaves. Here is how I learned to diagnose the issues. Yellow leaves with soft, droopy stems — that is almost always overwatering. Check the soil immediately. If it feels wet, hold off on watering and let the pot dry out completely before your next drink. Yellow leaves with dry, crispy edges — that is a humidity problem. Boost the moisture around the plant with a humidifier or pebble tray. Brown tips on the leaves — low humidity or fluoride in tap water. I switched to using filtered water or letting tap water sit out for 24 hours before watering, and the brown tips stopped appearing. Leaves curling inward — the plant is thirsty or stressed from cold drafts. Check the soil moisture and move the plant away from drafty windows. One leaf turning yellow at the bottom of the plant is normal aging — do not panic. But if multiple leaves change color at once, something is off. I keep a small notebook where I jot down when I water and any leaf changes I notice. It sounds nerdy, but it helps me spot patterns before they become big problems.
Pest Problems and How to Handle Them Naturally
Mealybugs, spider mites, and fungus gnats love Monstera adansonii as much as you do. Check the undersides of leaves every time you water. Catching pests early is the difference between a quick fix and a full-blown infestation. I inspect my plants every Sunday like a little weekly ritual.
Here is what to look for and what actually works. Spider mites show up as tiny webs between stems and leaves, and the leaves develop a stippled, dusty look. They thrive in dry air, so keeping humidity above 50 percent helps prevent them. If you spot them, wipe down every leaf with a damp cloth and spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil solution — about 1 teaspoon of neem oil per quart of water with a few drops of dish soap. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks. Mealybugs look like little cotton balls tucked into leaf axils and along stems. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol — it dissolves their waxy coating and kills them on contact. Check back weekly because mealybugs are sneaky and leave behind tiny eggs. Fungus gnats are those annoying little flies that buzz around the soil. They lay eggs in wet soil, so letting the top layer dry out between waterings breaks their life cycle. Yellow sticky traps catch the adults, and a layer of sand or small pebbles on top of the soil prevents them from laying eggs. Never use harsh chemical pesticides on indoor plants — they can harm you, your pets, and the plant itself. I have treated all three pest types on my plants using natural methods, and with consistent effort, you can get rid of them without resorting to chemicals. Patience is the key. Pests take time to eliminate, but your Swiss cheese vine will bounce back if you stay on top of it.
E.g. ：Monstera adansonii: Info, Care and Problem Guide - OurHouseplants
Care guidelines for monstera adansonii?! : r/houseplants - Reddit
How to Care for Monstera Adansonii Swiss Cheese Vine
How to Grow and Care for Swiss Cheese Plant - The Spruce
Monstera adansonii (Swiss Cheese Plant) - Gardenia.net
FAQs
Q: Is Monstera adansonii really toxic to pets and kids?
A: Yes, it absolutely is, and I cannot stress this enough. Every part of the Monstera adansonii contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are like tiny needles that cause irritation when chewed or swallowed. If your cat, dog, or child takes a bite, they will likely experience mouth pain, drooling, vomiting, or difficulty swallowing. I have seen this happen with a friend's cat that nibbled a leaf — the poor thing spent the afternoon drooling and pawing at its mouth. Do not take chances. Place your Swiss cheese plant on a high shelf, in a hanging basket, or in a room that pets cannot access. The ASPCA lists Monstera species as toxic to cats and dogs, and the same goes for humans. If ingestion happens, contact your vet or poison control immediately. I have a cat myself, so I keep all my Swiss cheese vines in hanging pots near a bright window, well out of jumping range. It is a simple precaution that saves you a lot of heartache and vet bills. Remember, even a small leaf can cause a reaction, so be proactive about placement.
Q: Can Monstera adansonii grow trailing vines instead of climbing?
A: Absolutely, and that is actually one of its best features. This plant is naturally a climber in the wild, but indoors it adapts beautifully to a trailing habit if you let it. I have three Swiss cheese plants in hanging baskets, and they all cascade down with lush, holey leaves that look incredible. The key is that you do not provide a moss pole or trellis for it to climb. If you give it nothing to grip, the stems will simply grow downward, creating a waterfall effect. That said, the leaves on trailing vines tend to stay smaller than those on climbing plants. If you want bigger leaves with more pronounced fenestrations, you need to let it climb. I have done both — one plant on a moss pole and one trailing — and the climbing plant definitely produces larger leaves. Trailing vines are perfect for bookshelves, cabinets, or hanging baskets where you want visual interest without taking up floor space. For a climbing setup, use a moss pole or a piece of bark and gently tie the stems to it with soft plant ties. The aerial roots will eventually grab the support on their own. Either way, your Monstera adansonii will thrive as long as you meet its light and humidity needs.
Q: How often should I water a Swiss cheese plant in winter?
A: Way less than you think. In winter, your Monstera adansonii enters a slow growth phase because daylight hours are shorter and light intensity is lower. I only water mine about once every 12 to 16 days during the colder months, and sometimes even less if the soil stays damp. The biggest mistake I see people make is sticking to the same summer schedule year-round. That is a recipe for root rot. Here is my rule of thumb: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until it drains out the bottom. If it feels even slightly damp, wait another 4 or 5 days and check again. In my experience, a Swiss cheese plant in a plastic pot needs less frequent watering than one in a terracotta pot, because terracotta wicks moisture away faster. Also, consider that indoor heating dries out the air, which makes the soil dry faster on the surface, but the deeper layers may still be wet. I always check the weight of the pot — if it feels light, it needs water; if it feels heavy, wait. Using a moisture meter takes the guesswork out completely. I bought one for about 10 dollars, and it saved my plants from my overwatering tendencies. Just remember: when in doubt, wait a day or two.
Q: Why are the leaves on my Monstera adansonii not developing holes?
A: That is a classic sign that your plant is not getting enough light. Fenestrations — those signature holes — develop as a response to bright, indirect light. Without enough light, the plant decides it does not need to invest energy into creating holes, so the new leaves come out solid or with just a few tiny perforations. I have seen this happen to plants placed in dark corners or rooms with north-facing windows. The fix is simple: move your Swiss cheese plant to a spot that gets bright, indirect light for at least 6 to 8 hours a day. An east-facing window is ideal, or a few feet back from a south or west window. If you cannot provide enough natural light, a full-spectrum grow light works wonders. I use a small LED grow light on a timer for about 10 hours a day during winter, and my plants continue producing holey leaves all year. Young plants also tend to have fewer holes initially — they develop more fenestrations as the plant matures. So be patient with a new cutting. Give it time and good light, and you will see those holes appear. Also, check your watering and humidity levels. Stress from overwatering or dry air can also slow down fenestration development. Keep your plant happy, and the holes will follow.
Q: Can I grow a Swiss cheese plant outdoors in summer?
A: You can, but only if you live in the right climate and take the right precautions. Monstera adansonii is a tropical plant that cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In most parts of the US and UK, that means you can only move it outside during the warm months, typically from late spring to early fall. I have moved my plants outdoors for the summer, and they absolutely love it — the increased humidity and natural light make them grow like crazy. But here is the catch: you must acclimate your plant gradually. Start by placing it in a shaded spot outdoors for a few hours a day, then slowly increase the time over a week or two. Direct sun will scorch the leaves in minutes, so always keep it in dappled shade or a spot that only gets morning sun. Bring the plant back indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. I learned this the hard way when I left mine out too late in September, and a cold night caused the leaves to turn black and mushy. Also, check for pests before bringing it back inside — outdoor plants often pick up aphids, spider mites, or mealybugs. I give my plants a thorough inspection and a gentle spray with water before they come back indoors for winter. With proper care, a summer vacation outdoors can really boost your Swiss cheese plant's growth and health.
